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Monthly Archives: April 2015

On top of Blood Mountain, seeing forever

08 Wednesday Apr 2015

Posted by chaplines2014 in Forest, Hiking

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Appalachian Trail

redwood trees

May 17, 2008, on the Appalachian Trail

Bob and Shelly joined us last night at the Woods Hole Shelter, and spoke about their experiences hiking the Pacific Rim Trail and the Rocky Mountain Trail. They labelled the Appalachian Trail the hardest of all, and Bob’s working on his third completion of it. We took him at his word. Fifteen to twenty years younger than Dave and me, Bob is a musician and a teacher by trade. He published a book of camp songs titled Hiking a Round. The problem with the AT, he said, was the impossibility, most of the time, of seeing the vistas and the horizon, due to the large amount of forest cover, and the moisture in clouds and fogs, unlike the drier and sparsely forested West.

Dave and I hiked from there to the top of Blood Mountain, one of the places and one of the clear days that contradicted Bob’s claims. Blood Mountain has the reputation of being the busiest section of the Georgia AT, and this weekend lived up to that. All the way up and down, we met assorted hikers and groups of all kinds. If there was anything between us and the gorgeous views of the distant landscape, it was more likely to be people than trees or clouds.

We ate our lunch on the mountaintop, broad enough for hundreds of hikers to find secluded spots and limitless views, enjoying the sunshine, lying on the rock shelves, and listening to the music of birds and breezes, punctuated by people sounds, of course.

On the way down the north slope, we met one extended family group of about twenty, with their grandpa bringing up the rear. As we passed, he said to us, “We ought to be old enough to know better, but I love doing this.” Huffing and puffing his way up, he and everyone else in his group appeared to be carrying heavy loads of picnic gear. I asked how heavy, and he said about seventy pounds. That made our thirty-five pound backpacks seem a lot lighter.

On the whole I was glad we had taken the opposite route to theirs, as well as carried half the weight. The ascent of the south slope was gradual, green and flower-covered, and much easier. The descent on the north face was steeper and rockier. After the spectacular scenery of the first several hundred yards, the rest of the descent was tricky, with improvised steps and steep sections, so we were both glad to be going down, not up, with just ourselves, not a group of kids to supervise, with light packs, not heavy ones. Their descent would be back the same way they came, and a lot of what they carried would be inside them, not in their packs. More power to them! We all would have a fine and full day.

Life in a tidal pool

08 Wednesday Apr 2015

Posted by chaplines2014 in Seasons

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events

lakeshoreWhat kind of metaphor matches the extraordinary event of resurrection? Eggs, rabbits, butterflies, the springtime renewal of bulbs and flowers and plants long dormant– all become metaphors for new life. They are fresh metaphors as long as there are children around, but for jaded adults their freshness wanes.

When Jan, Nathan and I went with friends to Acadia National Park several years ago, along the Atlantic coastline of Maine, we took a ranger-led tour along the rocky coast.  We saw the small tidal pools teeming with brightly colored life amid the granite boulders. Tiny neon red starfish, translucent sea anemones, orange sea horses, dark burgundy kelp, rainbow-sided minnows just started the long list of creatures found in pools no larger than a tub, left behind when the tide receded. Their lives seemed self-contained and secure, but reality always brings another tide and connection to the ocean, where their destiny is to grow beyond their small size into larger creatures within an infinitely larger sea.

Life in the tidal pool is interesting, but one is always aware that it is a microcosm of something vast and powerful. Life in the pool is fragile and temporary. The tide both renews the pool and destroys it, trading one set of inhabitants for another, retrieving its occupants for another life.

The pool could be any human organization. Nothing we belong to, from family to nation to humanity itself, lasts forever without changing. We get so involved in the small picture we do not see the larger. The forest for the trees. But if there are tides of change that we foresee, we live differently. Sometimes we live with more appreciation for the precious time we have in this space, and sometimes with more anxiety for fear of the coming changes.

The pool could be life itself, mortal and finite, existing in the endless mysteries of the universe. Science portrays many such tides in past aeons, bringing changes that involve destruction and renewal. What we experience in four dimensions, string theory in physics now tells us must exist in ten, well beyond what we perceive, in series of explanations that grow more bizarre and esoteric year by year.

Resurrection reveals our reality. Our regular reminders and celebrations of this bringa fresh tide of life-changing awareness. There is more to life than we can see, but how can we possibly describe it or talk about it sensibly with so little experience of it? We have to see beyond the confines of our pool, our little group, our short time. We begin to see a long trajectory of forgiveness and mercy, infinite patience, and steadfast purpose to bring something larger into being.

Sometimes you just have to chop a hole in the roof.

07 Tuesday Apr 2015

Posted by chaplines2014 in Events, fighting fires

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The Volunteer Fire and Rescue Squad

IMG_0002Two weeks after I had volunteered for the Volunteer Fire and Rescue Squad, there was a house fire in our town, and it was my first time to suit up in my new gear. The call came in the evening just after dark. When we arrived on the scene, the floodlights illuminated the smoke curling around the edges of the roof of the one story kitchen wing of the house, while the two story section next to that wing showed no involvement yet.

The fire chief, Don, asked me to get an ax, while he carried a hose on his shoulder, and we would climb the ladder just set up onto the roof of the kitchen wing. While I was thinking to myself,  “Me? Climb onto the roof of a burning house?” he asked me, not as a question, but as a dare, “You can chop a hole in a roof, can’t you?” And I said back, “I’ve been choppin’ wood since I was ten. I guess I  can.”

All the time, I was thinking to myself, “I hate heights. What am I doing, climbing onto a roof?” But peer pressure can be a good thing, especially when there is no time to reflect. Ax in hand, onto the roof I climbed.

“The best way to learn,” Don said, “is on the job. You’re going to ventilate this attic.” So he showed me where he wanted the hole, and how big to make it, and warned me to be ready to jump back, if there were more flames than he expected, when we opened it up. Meanwhile he had signaled to charge his line, and he held that hose secure and ready to release. Then I chopped my first hole in the roof of a burning house, and stood downwind of the smoke that began to pour out of it. As the smoke began to turn red Don directed the stream into the hole in the direction of the light.

Five years later, another alarm came, this time in the afternoon, when I was the senior volunteer on duty. The fire was burning at a church down the road a mile from my own church, and when we arrived on the scene, we saw smoke pouring from the vents under the roof of the one story fellowship hall next to the main church. Only a small amount of smoke wafted into the hall underneath a false ceiling that allowed no access to the attic. We prepared to climb onto the roof and ventilate the attic.

The minister of the church stood nearby, and when he saw what we were preparing to do, he said, “You’re not going to chop a hole in my roof!” Part of me wanted to say, “O.K. I don’t want to climb up there anyway.” Instead I said, “We have to. We can pour all the water we want on the outside of this building, and all you’re going to have when we’re done, is four walls of concrete block.”

Not appreciating my vast experience, he said he’d make sure I was kicked off the squad. He thought I was just wanting to burn down his building. We saved the building, though the hole in the roof needed  some patching, and the water damage required a new ceiling, and new wiring had to be installed according to code, among other things. No one asked me to resign my unpaid volunteer job, but for several reasons it seemed a fitting time to move on to other jobs that needed doing. I left the chopping of holes in other people’s roofs to other people.

Collecting eggs

06 Monday Apr 2015

Posted by chaplines2014 in Farm, Growing up, Seasons

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IMG_0002

Yes, we have pleasant memories of Grandpa and Grandma (Carl and Bessie Warfel) coloring eggs, hiding them around the yard, and watching twenty to thirty of their youngest grandchildren and neighborhood children scatter around the yard, filling their baskets with those eggs. That was Easter and it was special.

Every other day of the year collecting eggs was a chore. Between the ages of eight and sixteen, it was my morning and late afternoon chore. Later in the evening Mother (and sometimes I) would wash, weigh, size, and candle those eggs, preparing most of them for the egg man, who came regularly to pick up the surplus eggs, and provide the egg-money that purchased a good share of our needs beyond what we raised ourselves. (Of course there also was the creamery, too, that collected the cream and butter that we did not need for our own needs, and contributed to those grocery funds.)

The chicken house was a dusty place, lined with three walls of double and triple-decker metal egg-laying roosts, designed so that the egg, once laid, would roll down a slight incline into a holding tray, and the chicken could not reach it, though some chickens still managed to peck at the hand of the collector when he was trying to pick up their eggs. Old brown cotton gloves were a necessary protection. The chickens were supposed to lay their eggs in those contraptions, but there was always a dissident chicken or four, who made their own nest somewhere in the chicken house, or, in the pleasant weather, they would find some other private spot in the chicken yard. That required that the egg collector do a systematic search and rescue of the whole space that the two hundred or so chickens occupied.

Chickens are nervous creatures, and the slightest unexpected movement or sound sent all of them fluttering and crowding, cackling and squawking in one direction of another, raising new clouds of dust. This was before the era of face masks. It wasn’t always the most pleasant of tasks, but it had its rewards, especially when we came to breakfast, to the baked goods that amply filled our bellies, and to the other edible coatings, devilings, and sauces that made the table so irresistible.

I never developed a proper respect for the chicken brain, but as I reflect upon it, they were understandably possessive of their bodily output, understandably wary of the clunky, awkward robber who stole their most valuable possessions, and remarkably cooperative in their roosting and laying their eggs over ninety percent of the time in those metal contraptions.

Someday I think I’ll raise chickens again. Right here in the middle of town, perhaps, if the city changes its rules in that regard. Or out at the farm. Yes, most likely there, out on the farm.

The communion wafer, the substitute piano, and the not-quite-empty tomb

05 Sunday Apr 2015

Posted by chaplines2014 in Events, Seasons

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events

purple butterfly

Jan should tell this story, as she often has, but it’s my turn to tell it here in this space.

Jan was arriving at church on Easter morning, planning to enjoy the egg casserole at the youth-sponsored Easter breakfast, but at the same hour that the first Easter service was beginning. Meeting her at the door was a nervous Elder who let her know that “You have to save your husband (the minister), who is having to lead worship a cappella, since the pianist who promised to play for the first service did not show up.” True to her ready-for-just-about-anything role, Jan went into the sanctuary, picked up a hymnal and proceeded to provide piano accompaniment for the service. Very nicely.

Then came the communion service at the end of worship, when her husband placed the wafer and cup on the piano so that she could participate in communion, after she finished the piano accompaniment. Jan tried to pick up the bread—one of those very thin, whole grain, unleavened wafers—but it slipped out of her hand and fell between two center keys, and got stuck. The keys immediately ceased to play. It was at the end of the service so people had few chances to miss those missing notes.

Jan tried to get that wafer out but could not. Other people tried without success. The only remedy was to bring the rehearsal piano from the choir room behind the sanctuary into the sanctuary, after the choir had finished its warm-up for the second service. Jan recruited a few helpers to move that piano through the small vestibule between the two rooms.

The vestibule had been decorated as the empty tomb for a children’s activity which was to take place at the opening of the second worship service, within a few minutes, but the drapings and hangings of that “empty tomb,” had to be removed temporarily, to move the piano through that space. Jan proceeded to take the drapings down and she was in the process of putting them back in place, holding the last drapery up with her hand, when the children arrived to peer into the tomb.

There she was, caught in the empty tomb in her choir robe, with a score of children peering into the tomb and asking, “Who is that, and what is she doing?” Whereupon, Jan spoke the first thing that came to her mind, which was, “You come seeking Jesus of Nazareth who was crucified, but he is not here. He is risen!”

The children returned to the sanctuary telling about the angel who had announced the resurrection to them, much to the surprise of the children’s worship leader who expected them to say that they had found an empty tomb.

Ad libbing, improvising, and extemporizing all the way through the drama of the resurrection story—a comedy of sorts—does it sound familiar? The original actors did not have their act together, did they? It wasn’t exactly planned out to the last detail, nor are our lives. We just have to remember a few key lines.

The gardens are beckoning

04 Saturday Apr 2015

Posted by chaplines2014 in Yard

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park bench in spring

The gardens have been beckoning. They are quiet but stubborn in their insistence that we come into them and get to work. There are gates and  paths and a contrast between weeds and plants, tended and cultivated and neglected and overgrown, and these realities speak loudly even as they do not speak at all. So into the garden we go.

There are new gardens and old gardens and everything in between. The new gardens are those which we have just begun. There are few unplanned features. The borders are all neat and the weed barriers and mulch in place. The plants are relatively small and untested by the seasons. The flowers, on those plants that do produce flowers early in their lives, showy but sparse. Time and weather have yet to test the hardiness of these gardens, and their full potential is not yet evident.

The old gardens have seen better days. Overgrown with too many volunteers and untrimmed shrubs and vines, the old lines between plantings have long since disappeared.  The volunteers and self-seeders have reached areas not anticipated. The mulch has turned to humus and every wild seed has taken advantage of the remaining fertility. What began in sun is now in shade, and the new challenge is not only to put things back in order, but to find new plants suited to the new environment. Still there is a lushness in many of the plants that begs for pruning to bring out the vigor and the blooms. There is much of value in that old space, in spite of the unkempt appearances.

Somewhere in between is the time we usually prefer in a garden. The original plans are still in place, but unexpected changes have brought delight and surprise. Colors, textures and aromas abound. The intensive work first required to prepare the ground and plant the cultivars and specimens has given way to a more relaxed maintenance and a wait and see attitude about some of the growth that may occur.

I suppose these different gardens with the rooms that they occupy in any given yard may yield some messages that take the shape of metaphors, parables and allegories, but I am happy to observe and enjoy and to enter into them with the different demands upon the gardener that each requires.

Come to Life Again…May 14, 1901

02 Thursday Apr 2015

Posted by chaplines2014 in Cherokee history, Events, People

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Our Land! Our People!

The Pike County Democrat, May 15, 1901, Luna mothcarried this story under the heading “Come to Life Again:”

A dispatch from New Salem under date of May 14 tells the following story of the supposed death and coming to life of a prominent lady of that village: This community has been startled by the apparent death of a well known woman and the return to life of the supposed corpse. Mrs. Anna Bell, daughter of the late Thomas Gray, a former treasurer of Pike County, and one of the most prominent women in this community has been very ill for some time and all hopes had been given up for her recovery. Mrs. Bell, a pious Christian woman, had herself given up all hope, and was calmly awaiting the end. She bade her family and friends good-bye while she still had strength to talk. Sunday she passed into a trance, which was pronounced death. The doctors were summoned, and after a close examination they said she was dead. There was no pulse and no perceptible beat of the heart. Neither did she breathe. The usual tests were made, the tests that are generally regarded as infallible, and all indicated death. A lighted candle held before her mouth and nostrils did not flicker in the least. The lighted candle was held back of her hand, and there was no dim light between the fingers. There was no doubt that she was dead, and while the family mourned, preparations were made for the funeral. The undertaker was summoned to prepare the body for burial, and it was decided that the funeral should be held Tuesday. The body grew cold while the preparations for the funeral went on, but after several hours it became warm again, and then the supposed corpse gave signs of returning life. The undertaker was sent home and the physicians were again called, and after several hours more Mrs. Bell returned to consciousness. She is still alive but is very low and weak. The family is rejoicing.[i]

[i] The Pike County Democrat, Pittsfield, Illinois, Volume XLIV, Wednesday, May 15, 1901, page 2. The Barry Adage also carried the story.

Willie Ann (Anna) Bell was the grandmother of Glen Hillmann, who was living with her at this time. Glen Hillmann was the grandfather of Janet (Kleinlein) Chapman.

The Long Walk Home… April 1, 1925

02 Thursday Apr 2015

Posted by chaplines2014 in Events, People, Seasons

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Out of My Hands

purple butterfly

Spring was on the way again, and we were busy with the preparations. Grandma supervised the planting of the seed trays again, but she did not come out to watch the garden being plowed.

Our neighbor Elza Warfel lived a mile north of us. He came to the house on Thursday, March 19, saying he had been hearing some news and wanted to make sure we knew about it. A horrible tornado had ripped through southern Illinois just sixty miles south of us. The tornado had been worse than any storm on record.

“Even worse than the tornado that hit Mattoon and Charleston in 1917?” Grandma asked. She marveled that any storm could be worse. Nearly a hundred people had died and hundreds of homes and businesses had been lost back then. Grandma had known some of the people affected. It had been so close to home, and familiar places had disappeared.

“This is so much worse than that, people are wondering if it is a sign of the end,” Mr. Warfel said. The tornado had traveled nearly three hundred miles from Missouri through Illinois into Indiana. It hit Murphysboro, West Frankfort, and dozens of smaller towns, farms, and schools. It traveled fast, during the afternoon when everyone was busy and going about their regular jobs. A thousand people may have died, more thousands injured. Thousands of homes were gone. No one had ever seen such a storm.

“It strikes the just and the unjust,” Grandma said quietly. “In an hour when no one expects it.” And she closed her eyes and I think she may have been praying.

Why wasn’t there any warning?” Grandpa wanted to know. “They have telegraphs, and telephones along the railroad tracks, and people can see what’s happening. Why don’t they tell the people ahead that something’s coming, so they can find shelter?”

“I don’t know,” Elza said. “The government says they don’t want to alarm and frighten people, but people do need a warning. It seems that times are getting worse and worse. Things are changing.”

Grandma shed tears for the suffering she continued to hear about. The death toll reached seven hundred people, with fifteen thousand homes destroyed. We were only a few miles away, but we did not know what to do to help. She was small enough to start with. She seemed to shrink before our eyes, except for the enlargement of her legs and feet. Grandpa and Chlora wrapped her legs and feet with white gauze as the doctor had told them to do, but it didn’t seem to help much.

A week and a half later, in the evening, Grandma announced softly that it was time for her long walk. We looked at each other, puzzled, but no one asked her what she meant. She asked Mary to read to her from her old bible, the Twenty-third Psalm, which Mary did, stumbling over some of the words and needing Pearl’s help. Grandpa needed to help her move from her easy chair in the parlor into the downstairs bedroom. She didn’t wake up the next morning. Grandma died on April 1, 1925. We thought it odd that she died on the day everybody called “April Fools Day.” She could never tolerate fools.

“Grandma enjoyed these last few months, didn’t she?” Mary said.

I pictured her at the Christmas tree. “I guess she did,” I said to Mary.

The undertaker came from Hidalgo, bringing a casket, and set up the casket on a stand in the parlor. Family and neighbors came from all over the neighborhood , bringing food, and visiting through the evening, and some stayed up through the night, as we prepared for the funeral the next day.

Brother Hutson and Brother Ward and other elders of the church came and prayed with us during the evening, and they returned in the morning when we closed the casket. They walked with us as my two uncles, three cousins and I carried Grandma’s  casket to the black funeral carriage pulled by two black Belgian horses. We followed the carriage in Grandpa’s Model T. Other cars and horse-drawn buggies followed us as we drove the three and a half miles toward Aten Cemetery It was a slow ride through Hidalgo, and then we turned right on the dirt road that led to the woods northwest of Hidalgo. Her father, Solomon Cooper, had been buried back in 1899– after the service we found his old  tombstone. Grandpa Lon said he would be buried there, too, right next to Grandma. Aunt Allie and Uncle Bill said they had a plot right next to Grandma’s and Grandpa’s. It seemed strange that my Mom and Dad, and Grandma and Grandpa Hunsaker, would be in different places, but I guess it didn’t matter.

Still working at the Mattoon Shirt Factory… April 1914

02 Thursday Apr 2015

Posted by chaplines2014 in People

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Carl and Bessie- True Friends

Bessie Coen

Bessie Coen

Rose Hill Ills, April 10, 1914 [To: Miss Bessie Coen, Mattoon Illinois, 3208 Marion St.]

Dear Bessie, I received your welcome letter this eve and was so glad to hear from you and was glad to hear that Mattoon was a dry city. They was some women voted down here. This is almost like winter again.  I suppose that you are at work now. It is just 20 till 1 clock now. I was sorry to hear that you couldn’t stand work but Bessie it hain’t the work. You don’t get enough pure air. I know that I couldn’t stand that kind of work very long. The best thing that you can do I think is just to quit working there. You had better quit work for a while any way. I would like to see you this Sunday but I cannot but I will try and come up before very long. Yes Bessie I will tell you all I know about that when I see you and how I heard it. Well I must close for this time. It’s work time. Grant is going up to Hidalgo this afternoon. With all kind wishes to you I will close for this time. Answer soon from your true friend Carl. Good bye.

Mattoon, April 17, 1914 [To: Mr. Carl Warfel, Rose Hill]

Dear Carl, I was so glad to get your letter, and would have answered sooner, but I have been very busy, working in the daytime and sewing at night. Well we have been having some beautiful weather, but I think we will have rain soon, it looks so cloudy tonight. They have all been talking about the factory closing, but I think it will be like it was before; it will just keep running.  Bonnie was laid off this morning and don’t have to go back until Monday. There are a lot of girls out of work there now. I suppose we cuff girls will have work as long as any is left. I haven’t had my glasses on since I wrote to you before. I would like to have seen you Sunday, but you could not have stayed very long and go back on that afternoon train.

Yes, Helen Walker speaks now. She stopped me this evening as I past there and talked quite a while. I like her mother very much. Clara Reed was over here Sunday evening but did not speak to me. She didn’t like it because I was out on the porch while she was over here. She told Bonnie she was afraid I would think that she wanted to make up. Well I must close for it is getting late. I hope that you can get to come up before very long. Hoping to see you soon I will close for this time, From Your True Friend, Bessie.

Bruce and Cathy Larson opened the door.

01 Wednesday Apr 2015

Posted by chaplines2014 in Church, Death, People, Seasons

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Community Development, events, Life in the City, Memories

Luna moth

Bruce and Cathy Larson opened their door… to their neighbors who were trying to maintain their homes in Chicago’s Lincoln Park neighborhood in the face of a major urban renewal project that would wipe out many blocks of moderate income housing and replace them with high income condominiums. They volunteered to work for the Independent Precinct Organization’s efforts to stand with these neighbors and protect their homes and investments in their neighborhood.

Bruce and Cathy opened their door… to me as I went door-to-door canvassing for support for the IPO’s project and resistance to the city plans. They served me herbal tea each time I stopped to talk with them. They loved their multi-cultural neighborhood, interesting people, old houses, and Chicago’s only authentic beer garden. They found the city plans to be disappointing and discriminatory, destroying a a rich culture and replacing it with a moneyed elite.

Bruce and Cathy opened their door…  to the Lutheran congregation they served by choice at the same time that they opened their congregation to  commitments to service with their Latin and African American neighbors, young and old, their old union-organizer, artistic,  political dissident, and nonconformist folks of all stripes.

Many people came in and out of their doors. I was privileged to be among them for several months.

One night, after they put their two small children to bed,  they opened their door…  to someone they probably knew, or whom they believed they should know, as Jesus would have opened the door, or as Jesus came to them in the form of someone in need. That night Bruce and Cathy were stabbed to death in their living room.

As far as I know, their murders, back in 1969, remain unsolved. Holy Week seems a good time to remember such a fine couple in Christian ministry, who opened the door of my heart to the needs of people I had not met before,  and to the sacrifices that sometimes are required in the attempts to  serve.

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